NANDA DEVI RAJ JAT YATRA 2013www.nandadevirajjaat.com www.charmachan.com
In Brief
The Genesis If Any
The Sojourn and The Sanctity
The Legend Speaks
PLACES TO SEE
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Raj Jat
Considered to be the Mahakumbh of Himalaya and an excellent example of vibrant culture of hill
state of Uttarakhand, Nanda Devi Raj Jat Yatra offers a kaleidoscopic view of
the colorful lives of the Garhwal and Kumoun people .Coupled with the
harmony that exist in the region and
respect and love to their pampered daughter Goddess Nanda, the rich cultural heritage , abundance
of natural and aesthetic beauty
,simplicity of life high ridge mountains with deep gorges are some of the few
points that make Nanda Devi Raj Jat Yatra irresistible. Visitors are lost
amidst common under current of spirituality , love compassion that is in ta air
when s/he is part of the Raj Jat. come lets be a part of it and celebrate the Mahakumbh
of Himalaya.
A royal pilgrimage though the
precipitous mountains since time immemorial showcasing the vibrant culture and tradition of Garhwal and Kumaun rooted in the
mythology and in folklore Nanda Devi Raj
Jat Yatra or otherwise Mahakumbh of Himalaya
is resemblance of post nuptial ceremony of any Hindu marriage in which the
whole of Garhwal and Kumoun bid a farewell and escort their pampered daughter Goddess
Nanda to her consort the lord Shiva place . Perhaps it is the faith and intense
devotion that keeps a smile all their way through the torturous path that helps
them survive cheerfully in these extremely harsh condition.
In Brief
Nanda Devi Raj Jat also known as Raj Jat ( royal
pilgrimage), an important religious
event of the Garhwal region of India, is to take the Goddess Nanda to abode of her consort lord Shiva at
Gangeri peak . Involving a long
trek of 280 Kms and 21 days, this Raj Jat Yatra is taken up every after 12
years after elaborate preparation by the royal family and patron now living at
Nauti village and Kunwar of Kansuar villages. The Raj Jat Yatra is a
resemblance of Hindu tradition of
postnuptial rite of ceremonially escorting and seeing of daughter by maternal relatives
to her in lows place .thousands of devotees gathered and become part of the
ceremony as Goddess Nanda leaves for her
husband lord Shiva’s home with all her
personal effects and dowry.
The Raj Jat starts with an interesting note when priest
and patrons as per the tradition followed since time immemorial assemble and
put their heads together to draw a time schedule and to prepare a schedule and
itinerary for the retinue to reach the destination on the particular auspicious
date. In the month of Bhadon ( August & September ) on succeeding new moon.
The objective is to reach Homkund for performing the special rituals related to
the Raj Jatyatra.
As soon as the time schedule is
finalize, the customary chief patron of the event and the prince of Kansuwa arrives in Nauti in order to seek the blessings of the Goddess
and organize the Raj Jat . the offering that he brings after getting
Sreeyantra include Ringal-Ki-Chhantoli, a specially prepared
umbrella and a four horned ram(sheep) . The Ringal-Ki-Chhantoli become the seat
of deity here onwards and Serve the purpose of placing the idol of Goddess Nanda on it ,which is made of gold .
The four horned ram( sheep) ,which
took birth with an indication from the Goddess itself in the local village of
which the owner is informed before the birth of the ram, acts as guide and the carrier of personal effects of the Goddess. The most Surprising and interesting part of
the Raj Jat Yatra is in fact the four horn ram who leads the whole Raj Jat on
the tortuous trek and most interestingly
when it rests during the night, it sleeps near the image of the Goddess
only. On the final day of the journey at
Homkund after the final ritual is
performed , the ram leaves alone ( or with Goddess ) towards the snow-clad
peaks beyond which human kind are not
allowed to go . Surprisingly the ram
never come back and gets lost in the wilderness and left a trail of mystery
behind ….
The Genesis If Any
Wrapped in mystery Nanda Devi Raj Jat
is an ancient tradition which has been in vogue in the region for a long
time. Most of the scholars traced the
genesis of the Raj Jat to date back in 9th century or even before
that. If folk songs associate with the Raj Jat , famously known as Jater to be
believed, King Shalipal of Chandpur
Garhi is believed to have laid the
foundation of this tradition. He directed the royal priests to worship the Goddess
according to his instructions which are followed till date.
If
Jater ( folk songs associated with the Raj Jat ) is to be believed After
performing special rituals of the other Goddesses-Bhumial
Devi (Goddess Earth), Utrai Devi and Archna Devi and Archna Devi and all
popular deities of the region, he than preserved a meticulous record of the Raj
Jat to escort Goddess Nanda to her
in-law’s place after every 12 years. The responsibility of conducting the Raj
Jat every after 12 years was entrusted with his royal priests residing at Nauti
village with the help of royal patronage and local people. To help the royal
priest to perform all rites and rituals concerns with the event and for smooth
conduction of the Nanda Devi Raj Jat Yatra The king than authorized his younger brother settled in the
nearby village of Kansava to represent the royal house .
The Sojourn and The Sanctity
It is since that day and till now
the tradition is alive with more participation, enthusiasm and devotion and
with more vibrancy by patrons and followers.
Tradition of the Raj Jat is continued to this day and After every 12 years, it originates from Nauti
after elaborate rituals. To make it feel
more close to understand , in brief The image of the Goddess placed in Ringal
ki Chantoli and offering( dowry offered by relatives/villagers of the Goddess) are taken in a procession,
accompanied by bare footed devotees. In the whole procession the followers and
devotees make it a point to remain with the procession in body and soul,
observing self-control and taking food and direction for any deed according to
the prescribed instruction only and also participate in fervent rendition of
Jater as well as devotional songs and dance. The Raj Jath halts at nights at prescribed places and in the villagesfalling
in the route .People of the particular village where halt is made turn up in
large number to have Darshan of their Goddess/daughter who is making her way to
her in lows place and to make offering
and to join the Raj Jat till yatra concludes . With every passing by day the group
size increases and so the enthusiasm , devotion , bonding and of course the
altitude . the atmosphere is now filled with the joy and a sense of devotion
and spirituality. When night halts are made at specific villages prescribed and
on the itinerary, all necessary arrangement of the Raj Jat are already made
well in advance in these places .the lodging and boarding arrangement of the
retinue are made by the villagers voluntarily and as told the rituals are
performed at every halt in every villages in the night and in the morning.
Interesting to note here is that not only people from the villages where Raj
Jat makes halt join the entourage but also people from the nearby villages join
the procession with their Ringal ki Chantoli ( special design umbrella) and
idols placed on it. Till now prominent among such villages were the groups and
Ringal Ki Chantoli of Kurud near Ghat,
Lata near Tapovan and Almora in Kumoun. The widespread popularity of the event
is such that this year in 2013 the Chantoli( special made umbrella with idol
placed on it) of Kedarnath valley will also join the Raj Jat which is perhaps
200 kms from the procession area . Some 500 different idols and Chantoli are
expected to assemble this year at Waan village ,the last maternal village of
the Goddess influence . As a part of the
tradition it is customary in this village to keep all house open and in a
ready for use by the Raj Jat devotees .
The doors are kept unlocked on the day the Raj Jat arrives here.
Tearful
Farewell
On last day of the Raj Jat Just like
any Hindu marriage farewell, the priest and devotee at Homkund after performing
necessary rituals load their offering ( dowry ) for their Goddess/Daughter on the four horn
ram . Like any bridal ,The Goddess is decorated in special bridal make up and
is given a tearful farewell. The atmosphere itself is too emotional and one
cannot stop tears falling from his/her eyes as the pampered daughter/Goddess Nanda
is leaving us with a promise to make her appearance after 12 years. It is a
pathetic scene with all the devotees in tears, as if they are bidding farewell
to their own daughter, leaving home to meet her husband. Mysteriously the four
horned ram proceeds itself all alone onwards
Kailash the abode of Lord Shiva on its own. Widely revered by one and all in
the region the peak is part of Nanda Parvat and is one of the highest mountain
peak in the region and in the world. The overwhelming local association with
the Goddess Nanda can be verified with the very fact that they become incredibly sentimental and break
into tears when they sing the songs / Jatar associates with their revered Goddess
whom they regard as a pampered daughter of their own
Himalayan Daughter and Her Popularity
The popularity of the pampered
daughter of the hills Goddess Nanda can be measured with the fact that whole of
Garhwal and Kumoun is dotted with the Nanda temples here and there. Nauti, Kurur, , Kulsari, Chandpur Navdkesri,
Lohajang, Shila Devrada, Nandakot Vaidini, Srinagar, Samudra Sink, Devikhet,
Nandprayag, Gopeshwar, Helang, Lat, Niti and Badrinath are some of the
prominent places in the Garhwal region where one can find temples of Goddess Nanda.
On similar note in Kumoun region Nainital, , Shuwbhgash, , Almora Munsyari,
Doonagiri, Baijnath Jageshwar, Ranikhet and
Bageshwar are some of the important places where one can find the temple
of Goddess Nanda. Not just religious or
spiritual but also a symbol of unity in the garhwal and Kumoun hill which act
as a binding force and cultural unity between the people of the region Nanda
Devi Raj JatYatrais truly a Kumbh of Himalaya.
The Legend Speaks
The close association of King
Jasdhaval of Kannauj with Raj Jatis is well known in the region . Legend is vallabha
, king Jasdhaval’s queen , was the daughter of rulers of Chandapur (Garhwal)
and a distance sister of Goddess Nanda. In past Goddess didn’t accept the offer
of invitation to make her present in a ritual (yagya) performed by king because
her consort lord Shiva was neglected and was not offered an invitation to
attend the ceremony and ritual.
After many years passed by once upon a time,
when Goddess Nanda, noticing lord Shiva is in deep meditation, with her friends
went for a voyage and entered Kannoj ; Valabha was surprised to see her and sarcastically
taunt her as well for Goddess Nanda
never accept an offer of invitation in past and now without invitation why Nanda is in
kingdom. However Vallabha ask Goddess Nanda for her wish that she would want as
a part of custom .While leaving Goddess Nanda ask for whole kingdom in return which
was denied by Vallabha her sister vehemently. Which Goddess took as an
disrespect to her wish and gets angry and cursed the whole Kannoj for there
will be no produce and a situation of famine , draught and other calamities
will engulf the whole kingdom . The result was visible.
Now the royal priest divine the
reason and advice king to participate and perform Raj JatYatra . As advised the
king along with queen Vallabha , prince Jadeel , and pricess Jadeela and a huge
entourage which was including dancing girls and musicians arrived and joined
the Raj Jat in Waan village. Showing no
respect to Raj Jat they did not remove
shoes ,did not accept offering and prohibit taking food from the Raj Jat.also
against the norms of the Raj Jatthey held a dancing session near Roopkund. Since
then, the place is known as Patar Nachonia (the spot where dance was organized
and performed) The queen who was pregnant delivered in a cave about four kms
from Roopkund. The royal entourage had to make a night halt there.
The disrespect towards the holy Raj
Jat shown by the king was enough to earn a wrath of Goddess Nanda .the sanctity
of the Raj Jat was spoiled by otherwise prohibited troop of dancer and their performance coupled with the delivery of queen in the cave
which has blemished the holy water of Roopkund
also. The heavy snowfall followed by a deadly avalanche was the result that
night in which the entire entourage perished. Some persons are believed to have
slipped and drowned into the Roopkund lake .The dancing girls and troops are believed
to have turn into rocks in circles and which can be witnessed even today. This
accident and wrath of Goddess Nanda was believed to have e taken place in 900
A.D. Since then because king Jasdhaval was considered to be the ancestor of
prince of Kansua (royal family who organize the Raj Jat ) the tradition of
offering homage to the king and family
is performed at this point.
PLACES TO SEE
Roopkund: Riddle of the Death
“the Skelton lake”
Mystery is the only description and
address of the lake. A lake situated at an altitude of 5029 enroute Nanda Devi Raj
JatYatra is rather shallow having a depth of about 2 mts. With the edges
covered with snow for most part of the year, when there is no snow one can see
the human skeletons with flash still attached to it. These skeletons have been
preserved by Mother Nature for centuries and which makes the lake even more
mysterious.
Carbon dating of
the skeletons and a research carried out by national geography in 2005 has only
strengthen the believe and folklore.
Enroute Raj Jat offering magnificent views of the Trishul, N anda Ghunti
and Badrinath peaks it only adds to the aesthetic beauty of nature and makes
one feel wonder and surrender to almighty.
Bedini Bugyal/Vaitarani : one of the best camping
sight in the lap of Himalaya Situated at an altitude of 3354 mts carpeted with soft, green grass Bedni Bugyal is a Himalayan alpine meadow on
the way to Roopkund trek close to Waan. The smiling kids, farmers plowing and
women with the local carriage are the sight enroot that never makes you feel
tired. Myriad variety of flowers Patches in meadows is an added beauty to the
nature and left you make a wish that the time get stopped here. Though
indescribable Unmatchable, unimaginable and unbelievable are the words that one
uttered again and again. The trail that follow the route to Bedni Bugyal is
from thh village Waan to the ridge of
Rankiyadhar to the descent of river Neelganga and after crossing the river a
steep climb through the jungle dotted with the tree of rhododendron and
oak.enroute places are Gairoli Patal and dolia dhar with a temple .
Shila Samundar Perhaps the most
beautiful spot in the entire Raj Jat Yatra . At the height of 14000 ft in a valley dotted with the peaks and huge
snow covered Boulders and water flowing
and coming from every possible end this place is the falling base of most of
the glaciers enroute. The irony is that you may fall in love with this place
but not in a position to feel and express it.
Pattar Nachoniya : after crossing Bedni Bugyal the next halt is the legendary Pattar Nachonia near Roopkund where King Jasdhaval is said to have held the dancing session and made his female courtesans dance. The stone arranged in a circle at this spot are said to be the dancing girl which were turn to stone. This accident and wrath of Goddess Nanda was believed to have taken place in 900 A.D. Since then because king Jasdhaval was considered to be the ancestor of prince of Kansua ( royal family who organize the Raj Jat ) the tradition of offering homage to the king and family is performed at this point.
Pattar Nachoniya : after crossing Bedni Bugyal the next halt is the legendary Pattar Nachonia near Roopkund where King Jasdhaval is said to have held the dancing session and made his female courtesans dance. The stone arranged in a circle at this spot are said to be the dancing girl which were turn to stone. This accident and wrath of Goddess Nanda was believed to have taken place in 900 A.D. Since then because king Jasdhaval was considered to be the ancestor of prince of Kansua ( royal family who organize the Raj Jat ) the tradition of offering homage to the king and family is performed at this point.
Lohajang : the base camp for
many important trekking route including Roopkund trek, Bedni Bugyal trek and Kuari
Pass trek, Lohajang is situated at the height of 2280 mts from the sea level.
The trek is seven kms upward from Bakargad. Enroute you will find lush green
meadows and you can see the entire range of snow clapped Himalayas. Although
the trek is a test of your strength and patience the route make one forget the
perils of the arduous trek. Option of motorabe
road is now available from Ghat.
Wann : famous for the shrine
of Laatu devta ( Brother of Goddess Nanda)and last village of maternal
influence of Goddess Nanda village of Bann is located at a distance of 5 kms
from Lohajang. Dotted with oak and deodar jungle the route is uphill but wide
enough and comfortable. The inhibitants are palso shepherds and farmers. The
typical style suited to the mountains and region the dwelling units are mostly
single storied with a slop .for the Raj Jatthe doors of the locals are open
always as in to welcome the guest of their very own . a famous gateway to all
the treks including Roopkundtrek , Bedni Bugyal trek and Kuari Pass Trek..
Gangotri Cave : This cave is where the
pregnant queen of the Jasdhaval, Vallabha, delivered a child.
Kaliuva Vinayak : a famous idol of lord
Ganesha warshipped as kailura vinayaka this place is 6 kms from pattar
nacholiya at an altitude of 3000 mts.
Bagwawasa : famous for flower
of brahmkamals. A mystical ambiance created
by the aroma of these flowers gives asence of heaven on earth is unmatchable.
Perhaps the name that this place derive
from the point that ahead of it is Jura Gali or the valley of death ,an
steep descent and therefore if one has a wish to remain live s/he has to make
this place the dwelling point.
Itinerary
Day 1 Kansua to Nauti
:The
initiation of the spiritual sojourn .the sending back of Goddess to her in lows
place is aNn atmosphere filled with mix
of joy and painfull feeling of separation seperation from daughter as well . thelog day
end with the rituals performed by the Kunwar of Kansua pilgrimage accompanied by jatar . Jatar -which
is a mix of eulogy to Goddess Nanda and pain of separation from her..
i
Day 2 Nauti to Erabadhani:The Raj Jat starts
picking up and people starts joining the entourage from here onwards .the next
halt would be village Erabadhani where the first offering to the Goddess would
be made when she reached there .each household in the village try to make
offering to her goddess who is a daughter of the village also .
Day 3 Erabadhan to Nauti.back:From here the
Chantoli of Goddess join the Raj Jat as a symbol in which idol of the Goddess Nanda
would be placed .the obtaining of sreeyanta
by Kunwar of Kansua in order to take permission and to led the procession to the destination .
Day 4 Nauti to Kansua:Important because the
special made Ringal ki Chantoli are being offered by the royal family and custom of dowry to their bellowed daughter
Goddess Nanda is followed . The whole of
village gathered to have darshan and to bid farewell to the daughter of the
village . Tears in the eyes of the locals
and Jater which has a mix of eulogy and pain of separation is a common site . Legend has that goddess cry
while leaving her home and in a complaining tone she is asking why she is being
sent to a place where there is no life
in distance and that the conditions are not good.
Day 5 Kansua to Sem
.10 kms .motorable also.chatoli:The Raj Jat is picking up and with every
passing by day there is addition of devotees .Chantoli from nearby villages
and and offering to the effect of
Goddess Nanda are being offered after performing rituals and making necessary arrangement
for the night stay to the retinue.
Day 6 Sem to Koti .10
kms:The
atmosphere is now filled with joy, enthusiasm, devotion and spirituality . The
entourage now looks like a family under the umbrella of Goddess Nanda .the
materialistic aspect of life seems to be a distance cry as the visitors and
devotees are lost amidst the undercurrent of spirituality .
Day 7 Koti to Bhagoti:The next halt is a small hamlet Bhagoti in
the lap of Himalaya . The simplicity
that goddess Nanda has bestowed upon the people of this village is quite
noticeable.The selfless approach of the people itself is a real treat to the visitors otherwise accustom
to the worldly and materialistic approach.
Day 8 Bhagoti to Kulsyari:The 10 kms trek lead us to the village
of Kulsyari where the chantioli of the nearby village and devotee will join the
entourage.
day 9 Kulsyari to
chepadu:A
true mirror image of Garhwal region of India . the trek to village Chepdu all its way will be witnessing the peak of Trishul and
Nanda Koti glorifying the Himalaya itself. Seeing from the top is the view of a
serpentine river leading her way to the destination.
Day 10 Chepdu to Nandkeshai-
6 kms:It
looks like the whole of universe has converse in order to bid a farewell to
Goddess Nanda Thousands and perhaps lakhs of devotees are gathered now and benefiting
by being the part of blessed journey .the night halt at Nandkeshari is made and
after performing the rituals the journey is set
with a promise to reach the destination .
Day 11Nandkeshari to
Faldiya .halt .chatoli.8 kms:The halt at Faldiya is accompanied by the
inclusion of chantoli at the village. After performing rituals and Pooja the
Raj Jat moves ahead to Mundoli.
Day 12Faldiya to
mundoli -10 kms. Beautill village:Known for its aesthetic beauty this place is
worth admiration .most of the trekker to Roopkund , bedni Bugyal or Kuari pass always
tried to make their way through this tiny but beaut village.one cannot stop
falling in love with the beauty of this Himalayan village in Garhwal .
Day 13Mundoli TO Waan:The
ascent of the Raj Jat start from here and an increase in the altitude is experienced.
Walk is not difficult but a bit long. From here the path to Lohajung leads
through marvelous view of Trishul peak.
Famous for the shrine of Laatu devta ( Brother of Goddess
Nanda)and last village of maternal influence of Goddess Nanda village of Bann
is located at a distance of 5 kms from Lohajang. Dotted with oak and deodar
jungle the route is uphill but wide enough and comfortable. The inhibitants are
palso shepherds and farmers. The typical style suited to the mountains and
region the dwelling units are mostly single storied with a slop .for the Raj
Jat the doors of the locals are open always as in to welcome the guest of their
very own.
Day 14 Waan to Gairoli
Pathar. Bedni bugyal.trek 10 kms:The trail that
follow the route to Gairoli patal is-
from the village Waan to the ridge of
Rankiyadhar to the descent of river Neelganga and after crossing the river a
steep climb through the jungle dotted with the tree of rhododendron and oak.
Day 15 Gairoli pathar
to pathar nachnia 12 kms:The trail from Gairoli patal is continue and
gradual . The left to the ridge is a breathtaking view of the peak of trishul
and Nanda Ghunti during this trek. From this point the trail moves on to the
true right of the valley and becomes almost flat until it reaches Patar
Nachaniya. Following this the trail
ascends steeply to reach the top of the ridge marked with the Temple of
Ganesha. A further 01 Kms brings Raj Jat to Bagubassa. marked with open rocky
structures. Justifying its name tha Baguabassa is a place full of flowers
including Brahmkamal –A specially godly lotus found only at high altitude in
Himalaya .
Day 16 Pather Nachonia
to Shila Samundar .via roopkund..jura gali.15 kms:A Treat to body and
soul the D day is here .Most interesting but Treacherous enough to make one
pull back himself from the Raj Jat day
will began today early in the morning. The numbers of devotee and visitor in the retinue
will start dwindling sharply and only who can challenges the extreme can
accompany the Raj Jat.But yes ,the reward is also more than one could expect. Mystery,
joy, sense of being at top, a treat to eye and most importantly one of the best
view for a climber in the world are a real mix of achievement one can take his
bag filled with.
Day 16 Shila Samundar
to Homkund.16 kms:The
spiritualty has a mix of emotions now. the day has come when the Goddess Nanda
will be set on her course to her in lows abode to Kailas. A deep sense of
separation from the goddess and from the family that was made during the
spiritual journey will be there.one can barely stop himself /herself from
breaking into tears after bidding farewell.
Day 17 Homkund
to chandenia ghaat to sutol16 kms:After
breakfast early in the morning start the day trek to Sutal, down gradually. The
aim is to reach Sutol , the traditional village with tilted roof .the group has
no leader or the direction now but the memory and a company.
Day 18 Sutol to Ghaat , Nandprayag to Nauti 25 kms.
Day
19Any additional chatoli mey change the direction.but ll hv to b part of raaj
jat..
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